It only becomes difficult with the corn snake when it comes to determining sex.
Because this is almost impossible to differentiate – at least purely externally – in young animals, in adult animals only to a limited extent based on a more slowly tapering tail section and a smaller number of subcaudals (enlarged horn scales on the underside of the tail).
Both can only be seen in a direct comparison between males and females.
A veterinarian can provide much better clarification through probing or blood analysis.
Behaviour and peculiarities in nature
Corn snakes are generally excellent climbers.
Also, their belly scales are shaped upwards on the side edges to offer optimal support over almost the entire contact surface of the snake.
The snakes can move correspondingly quickly on a wide variety of soils ( even in water ) and are not least because of this remarkable hunters.
Their prey consists not only of defenceless young animals but also of no less nimble specimens.
Nevertheless, the adder is considered a flight animal.
She’d rather withdraw than risk injury.
However, if it is directly threatened, it straightens up in the typical defensive posture and can attack with lightning bites.
However, these are not poisonous.
The ambush tactic is used for hunting.
Either the snake waits until a prey animal approaches it, or it sneaks up on it secretly.
Her perfect sense of smell comes to the rescue.
The snake can not only track down its prey via the forked tongue. It also serves as a spatial orientation.
It is not uncommon for the corn snake to end up on trees, preying on eggs and young animals from bird nests.
It is killed by strangulation. For this purpose, the prey is bitten while the snake’s body wraps itself around the victim several times and more and more tightly until its internal organs finally give way.
A special feature is the snake’s surprisingly muscular body and extremely flexible jaw, which allows the prey to be devoured whole.
The hunt is single-handed.
Corn snakes are not necessarily socially bound in other ways, either.
Usually, they are loners who only come together to mate.
The offspring are left to fend for themselves when they lay their eggs.
Territorial fights are rarely waged and usually end after wrestling without serious injuries.
However, during the winter rest, several dozen specimens often gather in suitable hiding places where they winter together.
Keeping corn snakes in a terrarium
In contrast to its wild counterparts, the domesticated corn snake is not allowed to hunt.
Not because they did not want to or could not, but because the killing and live feeding of vertebrates is fundamentally forbidden under current law.
Fortunately, however, the adder is so frugal that it is satisfied with defrosted frozen food and can do without sporty hunting insoles.
Otherwise, the corn snake does not make excessive demands on its keeping.
Nonetheless, it should, of course, be designed as species-appropriate as possible and meet all the snake’s needs for a healthy, contented life.
Terrariums for corn snakes
In the apartment, the corn snake moves into a terrarium made of wood and/or glass, ensuring sufficient air circulation.
A protected area should be selected as the location, away from drafts, direct sunlight, noise and vibrations.
Fixed back and side walls, for example, made of wood or cork, offer the best protection.
A glass front is recommended for sufficient daylight and, of course, for admiring and examining the snake.
Terrariums can be purchased in very different sizes, depending on the type and number of residents.
For a single corn snake, at least 130 x 70 x 130 cm (LxHxD) should be available.
The rule of thumb is often:
“Body length in cm * (1 x 0.5 x 1) = length x height x depth in cm”
Mind you. This formula only calculates a minimum.
Snakes are also curious, like to explore their surroundings and take a lap in the Carré.
Also, it is possible to keep corn snakes in pairs and groups, but this must, of course, be taken into account when considering the terrarium size.
The corn snake terrarium requires the following technology as basic equipment:
- Radiant heater with UV component for heating to approx. 25 to 30 ° C (10-12 hours during the day)
- Spots, local floor heating, heating plates or heatable stones for “sunbathing” (during the day)
- If necessary, cooling systems for cooling to 20 ° C (at night) or winter rest.
- Thermometers and hygrometers in at least two locations, as well as timers
- Humidifier or at least a spray bottle for manual humidification to approx. 50 – 60% humidity (never spray the animals directly!)
First and foremost, the establishment of the terrarium offers enough retreats and hiding spots that are not directly heated or irradiated.
These can be, for example, rock imitations, real stones and slabs, roots, cork tubes and various caves.
Not to be forgotten is a wet box in which the animals can shed their skin better when the humidity is high.
Rough surfaces also support the moulting. Since the snakes like to climb, a structure over several levels is recommended.
Wooden climbs, lianas or drooping roots, as well as strong ropes, connect the various sections.
Terrarium plants are not necessary, but they decorate the small living space and offer further hiding places.
The vipers will neither nibble nor tear up the plants, so there is no contradiction here.
It is only important to pay attention to adequate soil that nourishes the plants ( if it is not about artificial plants ) but is also snake-friendly.
Dry substrates such as bark mulch, coconut substrate and fine-grained bark litter have proven their worth, as have pressed terrarium soil.
Furthermore, a water basin should be available for drinking and occasional bathing and cooling off.
Corn snakes usually do not like to be in the water, although they are good swimmers.
For drinking, however, they prefer larger, shallow pools instead of a small drinking water bowl.
Freshwater must be available and kept clean every day, even when it is not in winter.
Since sex determination is always a bit vague, it is advisable to offer an egg-laying place when keeping several animals to avoid a possible laying problem.
A separate container with a slightly damp substrate that is accessible at all times is sufficient.
Diet, feeding and fasting
As already mentioned, corn snakes will not hunt in the terrarium.
The feeding place can but does not have to be always the same, to bring at least some variety to everyday life.
A healthy, fully grown corn snake is usually fed every 2 to 3 weeks. With young animals, a weekly interval is recommended.
The fact that corn snakes are predominantly active at night and dawn should, of course, be taken into account during the feeding time.
During the day and in hot temperatures, the cold-blooded mood would be much too sluggish and accordingly digestion, which could lead to health problems.
“If the prey is available, the adder will greedily devour it without hesitation.
After that, she needs plenty of water and even more rest to digest thoroughly. This results in a certain rhythm.”
Frostmice, for example, can be on the menu in a very classic way.
These are thawed and warmed to about body temperature ( approx. 35 to 40 ° C ).
Chicks, hamsters, frogs, fish and other small animals can be fed according to the same principle.
The size of the prey should be based on that of the snake.
Eggs can be fed raw without any problems – Salmonella belongs to the natural intestinal flora of the corn snake anyway.
If you keep several corn snakes, you should closely monitor the feeding or, if necessary, briefly separate the animals until everyone has received their part.
When feeding itself, however, one must not be disturbed, otherwise, the animals may take flight and miss their chance to be full.
The prey animals can also be prepared with vitamins and, if necessary, with medication.
This allows the adder’s state of health to be regulated very well.
hibernation in the terrarium
Hibernation is also essential for the health of the corn snake.
Several specimens like to retire to a hiding place and spend the rest period of up to 4 months together.
The animals do not eat during this phase.
However, fresh drinking water is still essential.
The hibernation in the terrarium is ” rung in ” by the temperature and lighting system.
The seasonal change is simulated, i.e. the days or lighting times are shorter, the temperatures drop to around 10 ° C, and the feed becomes less frequent until it finally stops.
All of these factors should be well-coordinated to appear natural.
Corn snakes usually accept this supposed turn of the year in the terrarium very well.
The rest phase is important for regeneration and virtualization.
As the whole cycle goes down, the body can detoxify and recover.
If hibernation is denied, life expectancy is noticeably shortened, and the general state of health suffers no less.
Therefore, this annual phase is crucial and should also be in corn snake lovers’ interests.
Advice for taking care of your corn snake
Corn snakes are really easy to care for.
Once the technology has been coordinated and automated, it basically only has to be fed now and then and only cleaned occasionally.
Accordingly, those who rarely eat are seldom eliminated.
Corn snakes utilize their food very well to get along with it for a long time.
Conversely, the owner only has to remove the remains, especially the skins, from the wet box, if necessary.
The drinking water must be clean and the technology and equipment in good condition.
Otherwise, a corn snake “ grooms ” itself.
By rubbing against rough surfaces, it stimulates its shedding, for example. Help is only required very rarely and when necessary.
For example, teeth can even be reproduced again if they are lost.
In principle, behavioural problems or irregularities in the adder’s self-care are considered indications of health problems and should therefore be observed more closely as such.
If the adder lies in the water longer than usual, the humidity may not be right or too hot in the terrarium.
If she refuses to feed, she may have a digestive disorder or is otherwise ill.
Often skin mites and changes in the mucous membrane also occur.
If there is any suspicion, both the shed skin and the faeces can be examined for parasites.
For this purpose, samples are sent to the laboratory, where they are examined more closely.
Sometimes it is necessary to go to the vet, for example, for skin infections.
A suitable transport container must always be at hand when in doubt.
With the experience comes the more practised reaction to problems or questions of care. Breeders, associations and animal welfare organizers can provide help and advice if necessary.
However, if the owner is on vacation or otherwise lost, a person of trust should be charged with temporarily caring for the snakes.
Someone who will at least take over the freshwater supply and control of the technical settings.
The corn snakes themselves will hardly notice the difference. They are neither particularly human-related nor shy.
With a little patience, they can be touched and picked up without any problems.
However, they will never beg for pats or perform tricks.
They are more likely to bite as a defensive reaction. For specimens that tend to be aggressive, it is worth wearing special gloves or a snake hook to move the animals.
If you are bitten once, no hellish pain or the like can be expected.
The shock about the lightning-like movement is usually greater.
The snakes let go again immediately, leaving at most a tiny perforated tooth impression, which can bleed easily or, in the worst case, become infected.
As a precaution, hands should always be washed before and after handling in the terrarium – for the benefit of the owner and the corn snake.
After all, they both want to enjoy each other for a long time.